GOLF AND AGRITURISMO
by T.H. Rosenfield
Golf & Life Foundation
It's a lovely surprise to arrive on a Saturday morning at the Golf Club "I Girasoli" (The Sunflowers) for someone accustomed to traditional clubs and travelling in Italy and abroad sampling new courses. On arrival you immediately notice the ancient farmhouse of brick with the old stable doors and horse boxes; a reminder of the times when an equestrian tourist centre occupied the buildings. The owners organised tours by horse throughout the world, and there are still two horses in residence – now in retirement.
There are many chimneys on the roofs that emit the characteristic smoke of burning wood and I discover that many areas are heated by wood from the "azienda agricola" (agricultural company), famous in the region for alternative energy and for the first biogas system in the region, realised in the 1980s. In a short time an ecological hotel will be constructed featuring 1000 metres of photovoltaic (solar power). At the reception a staff of 3 delightful ladies greet you with a radiant smile and with a warmth that makes you feel immediately at ease - as if you were a regular guest. You immediately notice the casual environment and, I would say, the rather unconventional attitude of personnel and players who arrive with jeans, long hair, branded t-shirts (Tiger Woods) but all with a young, healthy, sporting look. I was immediately aware of the large number of young players, who while waiting for lunch around the swimming pool, were discussing the new works in progress on the course; works that are in continual evolution in order to keep all the players satisfied, as I later discovered.
As a young lady escorted me to my room I saw an "all American" saddled horse arriving from the course, from which dismounted a character who would make an impression on me. "Our chairman" the young lady said as she presented us. He immediately invited me to join him in a tour as soon as I'd unpacked, not on horse back but by car. My companion told me that when the chairman is at the club he is always very happy to spend time with guests and players arriving for the first time who do not know the club. On the notice board there are many letters from both foreign and Italian guests expressing thanks for the warm welcome and hospitality received.
My appointment is directly after lunch and I'm very curious about this person; 70 years of age, looking at least 10 years younger, who travels by Harley Davidson and who I have witnessed, despite his 100 kg, nonchalantly dismounting a horse in jacket, jeans and cowboy boots with a classic Lethermann on his belt. Things become clearer when I see his 92 year old mother strolling around the countryside with her assistant.
I discover a well equipped medical centre and a gym with a charming expert in Shiatsu. The restaurant is a classic countryside "trattoria", created from an old granary, with a wooden ceiling, stone floor, a counter from an old beer house, antique guns on the walls and furnished with old chairs and tables of wood. There I discover, as well as an incredibly well stocked wine cellar, a diverse buffet with at least 20 antipasti around which guests rotate to serve themselves and another surprise; many foreign guests from nearby France, Germany, Switzerland, Scandinavia, guests who appear to know each other – regular guests who return every year to the Club.
When I order a "mega" salad the waiter ask for a few minutes patience " We are out," he says, "but I'll send someone immediately to gather some more," and I discover a vegetable garden next to the restaurant (biological as decreed by the Chairman) with various salads, tomatoes and vegetables all used by the restaurant . I discover the perfectly equipped smoking room in which to smoke my cigar. I had just finished coffee when the "prof" (this is the nickname of the chairman from his previous work as university professor of surgery) arrives and takes us in a five seater car for a tour of a course which for me will prove to be a really, enjoyable surprise.
We pass by the paddock, next to which is the agricultural part of the centre, with many chickens, rabbits etc and finally we arrive at the driving range, located at the dam of a lake from which balls fly 250 metres and beyond up towards the already snow capped mountains of the Alps on the horizon. There are twenty spots, divided between open and covered, with another 15 planned (covered on the grass below). The course: 18 holes par 71 with 5 par 5 and with a par 4 of 400 metres. The first par 5 is hole number 1 (named the "runway" as overhead the light aircraft of the Club Piemontese used to land and takeoff). You start from a tee surrounded by daisies close to the old Hanger which has been transformed into residences. You immediately notice the difference to other courses. The rough is a really natural grass area, containing all the various foliage of the region; a real hotch potch of essences each one different from the other, cropped to the correct height. The Fairway is a mosaic of various tones of green according to the various foliage; a mosaic that would cause lovers of uniform landscapes and players of VIP courses to turn up their noses. Here, instead, it is appreciated by foreigners searching for unpolluted nature where rabbits, pheasants, ducks and herons run amok. The Prof. explains, with ill concealed pride, how his members conclude a day's golf collecting the chicory of Girasole ("tarassaco") from the rough to take home for a tasty salad. Later he shows me photos where, on days when the course is closed during summer, the Club hosts numerous children from the largest private nursery school in Turin, owned by a member. These children, in their mini- costumes, frolic around, together with their teachers, under the irrigation system of the course. Something unheard of by conventional golfers – something possible only on the course of the Girasoli devoid of toxic substances.
I now realise that we are on the edge of a vineyard, which divides the 13th and 14th holes and I'm informed that the "Azienda agricola" produces a good biological rosé, the Roseis, made from grapes of Nebbiolo and Arneis, wine that is consumed freely in the restaurant by foreign guests. The Chairman explains that there weren't any changes made to the landscape during the construction of the course, as the natural configuration of the region, the Roero, is in any case hilly. "The course was designed by the best architect in the world," he adds, "nature, with the help and work of Piero Bruno, the constructor of many courses in Italy". "I made the course as the Japanese make cars," he tells me, "while playing various American courses, including those of Trent Jones, I photographed many holes which were suited to my land and I copied them".
It is Saturday and the course is rather crowded, passing by various groups of players I'm surprised to hear many different languages spoken; something common to golf courses located in tourist areas. I notice that the majority of golfers are on foot. "The Winter Olympics", they tell me, "made Turin and Piedmont well known throughout the world and foreigners, using the internet, have discovered the existence of the most beautiful golf courses in Italy".
More than one hundred fruit plants (apples, pears, peaches, apricots, plums, cherries and nuts) as well as various fountains, located in strategic positions, between green and tee are available to provide satisfaction and encouragement to the players. There's a surprise at the 7th hole, a par 5 with 2 greens, one for champions; used for competitions and surrounded by water. The other is easier, without obstacles, reserved for beginners or, more likely, those who don't want to loose a ball! The Chairman tells me that he intends to repeat this idea for another hole, a particularly difficult par 4, in order to cater for the needs of even more players, from experts to newcomers. The course has many technical difficulties as it is characterised by beautiful though small greens and not very large fairways divided by many plants and numerous water obstacles. At the end of the trip, I realise that there was not one hole identical to another. All have individual characteristics making them different as far as difficulty, landscape and land. This is a course where, in order to have a good game, you can be sure to use the full range of irons in your bag.
From the Girasoli course you can see the beautiful holes of the adjoining "La Margherita" club, also founded by the Prof way back in 1987 (traditional club managed by shareholder members). I admire the large fairways and perfect uniform green, extremely well kept in every detail: the signs, the elegance of both the players and their Club house. It is no surprise that the club is classified in the top 20 in Italy and is the location of important international events. The Prof. informs me that there is an agreement to exchange days of play between the two clubs and that the Girasoli is twinned with 10 other 18 hole courses, throughout Italy, where members can play for free all year.
In the evening at the restaurant, managed by a young staff between 20 and 30 years old, I am asked if we would like to dine alone or would prefer to be seated at a table with foreign guests. At my request, I find myself, together with my wife, surrounded by Swiss golfers who tell me that they are regular guests of the Agriturismo and Golf Club. There is almost the whole club of Sion and they are here at least twice a year for 3-4 days of play. They have been won over, they tell me, by the hospitality of the place, in particular the type of cuisine and the ecological course which is completely different from the norm. A course especially demanding but very entertaining. When I point out that there are many other rather famous courses in the region worthy of a visit, the Captain quickly stops me in my tracks with a phrase that I will never forget: "We don't like manicured golf courses".
A lovely, comfortable suite with open fire and living room of old Piedmont terracotta tiles welcomes us for a long night of deep sleep like never before. The day after, Francesco, the son of the Prof. tells me the story of the meteorite which fell during the mid 800s just 100 metres from the farmhouse, creating a special magnetic field in the area which seems to positively influence the sleep of all the guests.
Could it be true or was it more likely thanks to the wonderful Piedmont cooking and the abundance of Roseis consumed the night before?